applying automotive paint to wood.

to get that high gloss piano black finnish.

im not sure about this but i presume , apply a primer/yellow stopper to the sanded wood , sand the primer/stopper with wet wet&dry , prime again and repeat process until perfectly flat , even finnish.
apply black paint (two pack?).

how many coats do you recon?

once black paint has dried do you have to use a rubbing compound such as t cut? inbetween coats or on the last coat?

now the laquer, do you have to use rubbing compound in between coats?

i worked in a spray shop many years ago but ive never applied laquer before , just stopper , primer and paint so can someone run me through the process of using high gloss laquer?


cheers,

Rob.

 

could you get this done at a car body shop where they have good tools/booth etc?

 

probably but a car body shop probably wouldent waste their time with these i recon , unless they charge an arm and a leg.

why bother with two speaker cabs when they could be spraying a jag?

 

Hi Rob,
Your first post sounds about correct for what you want to achieve.
Last year I sprayed some MDF with hardwood edging and did the following:
Used wood filler on any obvious blemishes and then sanded down the wood using progressively finer coats of sandpaper.
Brushed on a coat of slightly watered down very dark charcoal emulsion, left it to dry and then sanded.
I repeated this process once more.
Then, I applied a thin coat of black gloss car paint spray and left to dry before sanding with the finest abrasive paper I could get.
I repeated this process twice more before finsishing with one final thin coat of the gloss spray. I did not use lacquer.

I did buy some rubbing compound but decided not to use it on the final coat as the finish I had achieved was better than expected - not a mirror finish but a smooth gloss black with a hint of the hardwood grain remaining.
With finer coats of primer and spray and by taking more time and care when sanding I am sure that a mirror finish could have been achieved.
Obviously, do all the spraying in a clean, dry and well ventilated but not draughty area. Good luck!

 

thanks lord.
ive just removed quite a bit of very thik vinyl veneer , about 1.5mm thick and now im looking at sandwidge hardboard(biult up of about 3 layers) and loads of dry glue so a lot of prep work will have to go into this.
aww well , i dident expect it to be easy.


cheers,

Rob.

 

I think the key to Piano black is not just good preparation with several thin, well-flatted colour coats, but following with several coats of with laquer/polyurethane to finish - that's where the deep gloss comes from.

 

would i need to apply some rubbing compound between gloss costs?
i spose it wouldent hurt eh?

 

No need for rubing compound, just flatten between coats with fine wet and dry. Dont over do it, you only need to remove any high spots, (usualy dust).

Paul.

 

Hi

Have you thought of using Japlac as a finish.

Regards

Stuart