clocks....

They are a completely different technology it works by 'not letting the component 'see' the incomming supply, thus isolating it., If you have the budget its very worth while Honestly, have used them in all sorts of applications from amps to pre's, trans/dac's you could speak top Iassc he's heard a few.Wm

 

Yeah I know what they do but I want to know if they're worth the extra £160 over one I could build myself (like the £50 ones they sell).

 

I personally feel yes, however having a seperate psu to the clock is always worth while.
I haven't found anything that gets even close including the charge pump type either.
But as you say its more money, is it worth it?. I haven't fitted any other psu since I heard the prototype stuck in the top of my old Wadia.You can always take it out when you sell the player if you decide to accquire one. Wm

 

I'm seenig Isaac tonight and will definately be asking him about these mods.

so how many psu's are in your cdp, what do they go to and are they all the no-connected kind?

What benefits can be had from changing the op amps?

 

Richard, I would recommend the use of 3 in the restructuring of clients equipment, in my personal players have 5 or more, mind you, you need to have some space inside to fit them all lol !!!
The 289 is good player, very similar to the 850, in that the same VRDS mech, separate power supplies, BB 1702 dac chipsets in dual diff mode, sod off case!!!
Personally I would do the clock mod/NC psu you may find just the psu is needed !!!, then I would concentrate on the analogue stages, not just the op-amps (try AD8065 (6's are the duals) or AD8610's??/20's) next look at the circuit pathway and see what else needs sorting .
Try some extra internal damping, prehaps some different clock shielding, they are many possibilities Richard, however some good gains can be wrung from the Copland. Wm

 

Thanks for the advice, its a 288 I have which includes the teac vdrs and tank case. There is a fair bit of space inside. I have damped the case to good effect with a mouse mat and heavy ornament but will probably damp it from the inside when I re-clock/psu it.
The other mods sound a bit heavy for my limited knowledge, I will see how I feel about tackling them after the simpler clock mod.

Cheers
Rob

 

Richard,You can ask Iassc I'm sure he will be able and willing to help. He almost knows what he's doing these days Its worth seriously considering. Wm

 

Hey, I've only blown one thing up so far today!

Everyone coming to tonight's bake-off feeling lucky?

 

Apologies for hijackin the thread ....

I have a marantz cd6000 ose le. Its a few years old and out of warranty and i was wondering whether it could be modded in any way. I was thinking of either modding the cd player or buying a seperate DAC..probably the derek shek DAC.

What would you recommend. I would have to get someone to mod it for me as i have no idea what to do and where to begin.

I have had a look on the net but some of the places charge a fortune......may as well get a new player.

What are your opinions?

Mod or dac and would either make much of a difference.

Cheers
Gpc

 

Marantz's clocks on the CD63 and CD67 series players were pretty appalling (~700ps jitter, giving max resolution of around 13.5 bits).

I don't know how the CD6000 compares in this respect. However, it's not a brilliant player to begin modding with because the transport mech isn't anything special, the internals aren't hugely generous on space, etc. For the same money that you could start modding up the 6000 for you could get a better starting point player (Pioneer stable platter, battleship marantz (eg CD10, CD16), Teac VRDS, Sony fixed-pickup) and then mod that as funds allow. Generally these would make good transports, so you could try running them into a DAC... NOSdac and SuperDAC are popular.

 

clock it. Dacs aren't always what they're cracked up to be, they can be very good but sometimes you get too much jitter etc. and a reclock is much better.
I bet you could do it yourself, the instructions are so easy to follow, you just need to know which end of a soldering iron to hold, you have to remove 2 caps and the clock for 6000 I think, they're all marked up on the trichord instructions. Like you say, people charge a fortune for it, its only a 30 min job start to finish.

 

Thanks Isaac, sound advice from an experienced member helps a great deal.

I think its the DAC route then. I dont particularly want to get rid of the player as i like everything about it, including the sound but i just wanted to see if i could boost the quality in a relatively easy and inexpensive way.

Many Thanks for the advice.

I see what you are saying about the soldering iron, but if i screwed something up i wouldnt know where to begin to put it right and it may end up ruining the player. Out of curiosity where can i get hold of the instructions to clock the marantz

Migh try a superdac then.

Gpc

 

Why not try the clock2 and psu (£50+£50) and when you have funds to but a cdp with better transport (teak etc) you can get a discount on a clock 4 (given to cl2 users) and swap the psu into your new machine. So in effect you could upgrade your curent player and not lose out when you upgrade. A win, win.

 

if you like the sound a clock builds on it, a dac will change it

 

Clock2 and PSU hmmmm


what are these?

You see for a £100 that sounds like an affordable Mod. But would it involve me doing it myself, if so i would need idiot proof instructions...are they available.

I have absolutely no idea how the internals of a CD player works so it really would have to be a step by step guide.

Cheers

 

You get the instructions from trichord. Honestly, don't write off the 6000, its a good player. IMO (and this may cause trouble but who cares) the transport is no where near as important as the DAC section of a player, just look at the new super cheap multi-players. They're all plasticy transports etc. yet they can outperform real serious money players. I reckon far too much emphasis is put on transports.

Probably the worst you could mess up fitting the clock is to hold the soldering iron on a solder pad too long. All you have to do to fix it is to just cut a piece of wire to the same length as the track between where you broke it and the next component, and solder it between them.
Just take your time, read the instructions through plenty of times, it really isn't hard, you don't have to know anything about the workings. Ring trichord if you like, tell them its your first solder job etc. they'll have plenty of experience with your player and help you with any problems. The 6000 responds really well to clocking, it experiences the same clock oscillations the 63 does. Clock 2 and PSU is the Trichord clock 2 and the psu is the power supply unit for it (optional but worth having). You'll get a whole new lease of life out of the player and your cd collection.

 

If the root cause of the CD6000's clock issues are the same as the CD63/67, then there's a fix that will cost pennies.

See http://www.acoustica.org.uk/

 

the clock fixes it and gives better performance than the filter cap etc

 

Just had a chat with the lady at trichord.
Clock2 50
Clock4 150
Neverused PSU 175
PSU Less than that!!

Had a look at the instructions and they do seem fairly simple.

Gonna have a good read up, i like the idea of this upgrade more and more and i think i would be daft not to have a crack at it.

Is the clock 4 worth the extra over the 2 and would the basic PSU upgrade be enough. Along with some decent damping it could work well.

But, I mean...how much can you really glean out of a player of this standard.

Thanks for the advice guys im off to buy a solder iron and some valium to steady the nerves!!

Gpc

 

I'd start with the clock 2 and basic psu. See what you think, might want to upgrade.

'A player of that standard' can be very good. The fact it hasn't got another 0 on the end of the price tag has nothing to do with it. Its a nice player fitted with a shoddy clock, as is the marantz tradition. I think you'll be suprised.