DIY Speaker Stands

Discussion in 'DIY Discussion' started by amazingtrade, Aug 11, 2003.

  1. amazingtrade

    amazingtrade Mad Madchestoh fan

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2003
    Messages:
    5,139
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Manchester
    I woke up this morning wanted to some DIY, I was going to replace the 1950's kitchen light with somthing modern, but since checking the wiring I have to decided to replace the wiring a later date, this will involve taking the floorboards up in my room so its a major job. I then thought about fixing the sash on my window before deciding to leave to the joiners.

    So then I had one look at my scrap wood speaker stands and I have t decided to try and build some better ones. The problem is what ever I do it will have to be simple and cheap and better than my currect ones! Some of you may remember me posting a picture of them on groovehandle.

    [​IMG]

    My system no longer looks quite like that as I have a midi sized DVD player where cassete deck is on that picture. But the stands are still the same.

    My ideas for new stands basicaly consists of:

    Having MDF bases, proper speaker spikes, or maybe just nails until I can get hold of some cheap spikes.

    Using pastic drain pipes for the tubes of the stands, then filling them with sand.

    Using silcone to glew the pipes to the MDF bases.

    The problem is I know that stands don't just need to be sturdy but they also need to absorb the vibrations to the speakers rather than react to them hence causing unwanted vibrations. I am not sure how to get round this problem.

    My tool kit consists of:
    1) A soldering iron which is never used on anything worth more than £10 due to the amount of stuff I have destroyed like my perfectly good dual turntbale I melted the PCB on by trying to the replace the interconnects!

    2) A few car spanners
    3) A jig saw (perfect for this job)
    4) Hand saw
    5) Drills
    6) All the other stuff

    I intend to paint the stands in a black matt finish. Thanks for any advice.
     
    amazingtrade, Aug 11, 2003
    #1
  2. amazingtrade

    zanash

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2003
    Messages:
    3,826
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Notts.
    If you can get some threaded rod and bolts 10mm ish you can clapm the top and bottom plates tightly together.
    this has some ideas
    http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/stubby_e.html


    I'd do three columns next to each other, for added weight and stability.
     
    zanash, Aug 11, 2003
    #2
  3. amazingtrade

    zanash

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2003
    Messages:
    3,826
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Notts.
    Oh yes looking at the image, I'd think about a better rack of the rest of your stuff.

    The flexy can be quite cheaply done and certain would provide a better support for the amp and TT than the shelf unit you have ! This will also help the sound of the rest of the gear.
     
    zanash, Aug 11, 2003
    #3
  4. amazingtrade

    amazingtrade Mad Madchestoh fan

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2003
    Messages:
    5,139
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Manchester
    I a good believer in supports etc but do you think it will make a good enough difference to make a better support worth while?I know my shelf isn't really ideal, it was just a spare unit I used to stick everything on. Also I know my CDP should be on a seperate shelf as well.
     
    amazingtrade, Aug 11, 2003
    #4
  5. amazingtrade

    themadhippy seen it done it smokin it

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2003
    Messages:
    1,118
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    by the cross
    is that a brick wall behind you rack?if so forget the flexi,get some decent shelf brackets
     
    themadhippy, Aug 11, 2003
    #5
  6. amazingtrade

    amazingtrade Mad Madchestoh fan

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2003
    Messages:
    5,139
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Manchester
    Yeah its a chimley breast, AI am not sure what the whole is filled in by but it feels solid so I assume it was breaked up. Why does this matter?

    The problem with shelf brackets is that the plaster is quite weak so even if I manage to drill the screws into the bricks I will probably make a mess of it, its not my house, its my parents and I will probably moving out next year. I guess it would isolate the vibrates well though.

    Will the flexy still be ok to placed next to a brick wall?
     
    amazingtrade, Aug 11, 2003
    #6
  7. amazingtrade

    themadhippy seen it done it smokin it

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2003
    Messages:
    1,118
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    by the cross
    yea flexi will be fine,just having a nice solid wall is even better.
    get a decent dill bit and a decent hammer drill( start drilling without using hammer and let the drill do the work,when you hit brick turn on the hammer)
    hold the drill level and dont drill too deep,30-60mm into the brick should be ok.
    id go for 75mm no10 or no 12 screws, brown rawplugs,and a 6.5mm drill bit.make sure theres no cables behind were your drilling.
     
    themadhippy, Aug 11, 2003
    #7
  8. amazingtrade

    amazingtrade Mad Madchestoh fan

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2003
    Messages:
    5,139
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Manchester
    I'll do a test tomorrow to see if my hammer drill (cheapo £20 argos type, but its corded) will drill into bricks. I have put outside security lights up with it so it shouldn't be to much of a problem
     
    amazingtrade, Aug 11, 2003
    #8
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.