IEC Inlet filter - What current rating ?

Hi,

I'm looking to add a filtered IEC inlet socket to my CD player, but what current rating do I buy ? For example Schaffner provide, 1,2,3,6,10,20 A rated items but what would suit my CD player ? The fuse on the CD player's plug is 5A - does that have any bearing. Is the current rating the output of the IEC socket or is it the maximum load that can be demanded of the CD player ?

???

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

I can't envisage a CD player drawing more than 2A, and even 1A is a bit of a stretch. Go by the internal case fusing of the CD player, which is likely (but check this) to be T500mAL. As long as the filter rating is above this fuse rating, it will be fine.

 

Thanks for the advice. So if choosing a filter, will a 6A perform better than a 3A one for example ? They're all priced the same regardless of current rating.

 

You will have to look at the datasheets to know that. It is possible I suppose that the lower current versions could offer higher levels of attenuation. It is also possible that they don't. Farnell provide links to datasheets.

 

why do you want to use one, I'm curious? I personally remove all of them, quite a big improvement too

 

If the component use all three cores, use an IEC filter with earth line choke such as RS FN329. Explanations as to why, is also given at their website.

 

If you want to experiment make up an external unit. You will also be use it with components where IEC socket is surface mounted type.

Or you can buy one of these:


More expensive than DIY at £37.73p plus VAT

 

Well I have recently bought a Sony SCD-XA3000ES which you can all now see from my update signature. The only issue is that the player surprsingly does not have an IEC AC inlet socket - you have to buy the £2.4k XA9000ES to get one! So I have decided to add one to the sony. Luckily there's a square metal plate 35mmX35mm holding the current captive lead which can be removed, making it easier to add an IEC socket. So given this option, do I buy a standard IEC socket or buy a filterred one such as one from the Schaffner FN9222 range ?(http://www.schaffner.com/components/en/product/productL22.asp?language_id=12)
Which choice will give me best performance ? I'll be needing a snap-in type as I don't fancy drilling holes into the case, especially as I've just bought the player! Is it possible to degrade the sound using a filter ?

The player doesn't use earth and have found in the past that if I attach the earth cable to the metal case of the player then my Pioneer A400(heavily dependent on earth) isn't too happy - a buzzing sound is produced.

A part I'm having trouble finding is the 2 female pin plastic power plugs that fit onto the CD player PCB. If I could get hold of one of these then I wouldn't need to cut the existing mains cable plus be able to use a higher quality mains cable...

 

I opened up my CD player to check the fuse rating and then looked at how the existing power cable was mounted through the casing. In order for me to fit an IEC socket, I'll need to cut through the casing which is something I'm not keen on doing so in the end I decided to use my previous bare lead to male IEC convertor outside of the player. I've yet to test the improvent as it was quite late last night when I finished.

So no filter on the CD then apart from some ferrite rings.
I'll soon be looking into making a mains filter which will fit at the main wall socket side, filtering my distribution block.

Thanks all for your help.

 

Why not secure your new cable with a gland nut on to the chassis and then solder it on to the PCB.

A much more direct connection than using IEC connectors and sockets.
And fit a ferrite on the cable near the mains plug and another one just before the soldered joint for good measure.

 

I'll be honest guys, I'd never do that, no ferrites in any bits of equipment I own or Mod, bad news man

 

I'd have to agree ...your not solving the problem.
look to use a good quality mains lead or build your own.
While your in the machine have a good look round you can often do a load of good things ie swap the rectifier diodes for ultra fasts or schottky's [my fav] the op amps normally are just bog standard to.
happy modding

 

Well I've decided to add the mains cable in a way that I can revert back as closely as possible to the manufacturer's set up in an easy and tidy way, when I decide to sell - which obviously won't be for a long time considering I've just bought the player and that it's of high quality.

I won't be modding any of the internal components. All of the caps already are either Elna Silmic or Nichicon Fine Gold series which is pretty impressive. Not sure about the other components though!

On the other hand, my A400 is heavily modded.

 

Right now there is someone at the A400 thread at HFC forum who want to know more about these mods. May be you could post details of what you have done there.

 

BlueMax,

I saw that thread on HFC. Looks like the guy's now looking to replace his CDP rather than tweak his A400.

Back to the XA3000ES. I managed to try the old A.C. lead from my Sony CDP-561E player attached direct to the XA3000ES p.c.b. socket. The 561E lead surprisingly sounds disctinctly inferior to the XA3000 and Audusa lead, so its down to 2 lead to choose from. I'm surprised that the sound of the original XA3000 lead (thin and weedy looking but OFC & Lead free) is comparable to the Audusa. At the moment I'm comparing the 2 leads and will have to decide which to keep. If it's the Audusa, then I'll be attempting to mount a Sony p.c.b plug to the end so I can bypass the IEC plugs/sockets.

I'm surprised at how responsive the XA3000 is to mains leads. I suspect that Sony very carefully picked the supplied lead or possibly tuned the player accordingly ?

 

It would be extremely interesting if they had, but I've got to say I'd have thought this somewhat unlikely.

 

True, I never thought Sony would pick the cable so carefully, but since cutting the original cable and adding the IEC inlet, I'm wondering whether I made the right move. I have added an IEC plug to the original cable so I am now able to do comparisons between this and the Audusa cable.

 

Well I've done comparisons between the original Sony and Audusa cable, and my conclusion is that the Audusa is better. At times the Sony could seem to have more bite to it but this was only down to it hiding fine details.

I've decided to remove the IEC socket and plug and instead solder female pins to the end of the Audusa cable and have this plugged directlg into the PCB socket for a purer connection. Will be listening for any improvements tonight.

Finally, my new Sony player can settle in!

 

Hiden secrets!

When you discover that the Sony 3000ES is a SCD-XB780 with a better box, better power supply and some better passive components, i guess you start to worry with other possible upgrades, like the output opamps which are NJM2114!!

Best regards
PLS

 

A CD player draw less than 230 Watts, yes? => 1 A filter will be sufficient and will also dampen more, just check the datasheet.