Power Cable/Cord Components

I read that an easy improve to your system is to put a decent power cord.
Since DIY is ussually cheaper than Buy It Yourself, I've decided to make a power cord. They're planned to power a Rotel RC1070 Pre-Amp and a Musical Fidelity X-150 Int-Amp.
I live in Chile and we use 220V.

Any idea on where I can buy the components to make me a good power cord?

Thanks

 

You will need the plugs that are used in your country and some screened cable two metres long with screened part connected at the mains earth end but not the apps. end. If you have earthed plugs in your part of the world that is. Zanash is your man for this and he may be along shortly. Jim

 

You will need the plugs that are used in your country and some screened cable two metres long with screened part connected at the mains earth end but not the apps. end. If you have earthed plugs in your part of the world that is. Zanash is your man for this and he may be along shortly. Jim

 

Sorry double post seemed to be very slow on here.

 

But what about that specials plugs and "little boxes" I see in comercial cables?
I guess they protect from surges & stuff like that.
It's good to have them on the cable, or in other words, does it worth the money to have them on the cable?
Thanks for the answers Jim

 

well too much snake oil here
anyway from the point of budget, the best that i know you can do is to look for a cable of german manufacturer lapp in your country.
they are super big manufacturer and they usually supply very big industrial systems so it is actually not so difficult to buy.
try to find their cable CY110 it shouldn't cost more than say 3-4 pounds/meter. here where i live, a group of audiophiles including me has just bought 300m directly for a wholesaler and we got it for 2.20E per meter (that's 1.50£).
you'll need good (no cheap plastic) plugs on both side and you can choose between branded audiophile variety and good industrial ones which will most likely not sound inferior...
the rings you mentioned could be an add-on thing and generally they are not so expensive so if you follow this you can have a DIY cable for a fraction of the price of the flashy graded audiophile's.

 

this is the one we've bought

http://catalogue-uk.lappgroup.com/index.php?id=20767&L=1

 

I am planning having a go at making a power cable or two but would like to know where to get components like Wattgate iec and uk inline plugs or similar. Any suggestions welcome.

 

I've a part roll of the stuff jimbo used ...its pretty good if you want some I'll post with instructions. pm me

zygote23 this applies if your interested.

The lapp cables are good but not cheap in the uk RS do with a minimum roll of 100m ?

 

Hi there. New user here. Great site guys, thanks.
Just about to try some DIY with some high quality screened ex computer mains lead, which I happen to have. It cost nothing so I've nothing to lose.
A question out of interest - Why only connect the screening at the mains end?

 

Perhaps Zanash could explain again but it could be to stop unwanted signals going to your gear and send them straight to earth, i think. Jim

 

You got that spot on ......but for signal read rfi /emi

 

Well thanks for the info. It makes sense - i think...
But why don't the unwanted signals rfi/emi, sneak back up the mains earth lead?
Incidently, I have made the leads up now and there is a definate sonic improvement. Can't tell how it compares with £50+ of specialist lead, but not bad for a £5 of plugs.
I have also tried your Digital Shorting Plug, yep it works! Slighty tighter bass and a more 'airy and defined' top end. First tried with an old phono plug and some resistors dangling out the back. Then bought a Gold plated plug and an exact 75ohm res. I think it sounds even better, but maybe it's just a bit shinier.
Thanks for the tips.

 

Its to do with the electron flow they should flow from your kit to ground as the resistance [impedance]is less...please, if anyone has a better explaination feel free !

 

Now that does make sense. Thank you!

 

Really good question! I'll have a go; the key bits to the answer are this:

1) Screens work better when they are not also used as conductors. This is why it's only connected one end, to avoid unwanted extra connections (and potential ground loops)
2) Screens are ideally connected to the lowest impedance; this is the source - so (in this case) the shield is only connected at the 'mains' end (marginally less resistance and inductive impedance than the other)
3) All conductors have the property of inductance, which means their 'resistance' effectively increases with frequency. This is actually why we shield sensitive cables - because most interference is at high frequency it doesn't simply drain into the 'ground' but it produces a nuisance voltage across all the conductors it intersects. So - shielding seperates the two jobs of coping with interference, and tying the equipments circuit 'grounds' together.
4) The 'earth wire' (or 0v wire in a shielded interconnect) is inside the shield, and since HF interference is mostly coupled by electrostatic means, the conductors inside the shield 'see' no interference; they 'see' the inside of the shield, which is effectively all at one potential - that of the point it is connected to. Which is why we only connect at one end, see 1 above....

 

I think that has explained it very well. So has this helped our friend in Chile? Jim

 

Not fully. I think I got it for the components but not for the configurations.
I understand why I should "earth" the shield (screen) to the main lead. Unfortunately I start doing a internet search and found a site that recomends to change "earth" configuration according to the equipment we want to power up.

site: http://www.venhaus1.com/diymains.html

Since I'm planning to use them on a Pre-Amp (Rotel RC-1070) and an Integrated-Amp (MF X-150) I thought the "Flavor 2" configuration should be better.

Am I wrong?

please iluminate me

 

Well, I have completed my homebrew mains leads. I used some 13amp ex computer screened lead. The make is unknown, but the insulation appears to be standard PVC?, but very thick, wrapped with a plated mesh. I also have a 4 way 'anti surge' extension lead.
I started by wiring up the '4 way' with the screened lead, using a quality 13 amp plug. I then plugged the amp and cd player in using the standard 'kettle leads'.The sonic difference was quite noticable. More presence and a greater clarity at the top end.
I then made up 2 leads for the amp and the cd player using the same screened leads, quality 13amp plugs and the only connectors I could find, from Maplin. WOW big difference.
I then went back and remade all the screw joints with solder joints. (Iwas not happy about how tight they were).
Man alive! the whole system came alive, in a way which is, at times - startling! The bass is much tighter and seems to go down about another octave, the treble is cleaner, clearer, better defined. The sound stage is more precise and at times seems to go outside the speakers. The system seems to have much more presence. The timing and rhythm have also improved. It is a little bright for my taste, but seems to be settling down as it 'burns in'? I simply cannot believe that a screened mains lead can have that much effect.
If you haven't tried one - do so!
I am going to hunt around and see if I can locate any other screened lead to try. I talked to a friend tonight who has made up some leads using 'Arctic Cable' This is apparently silicone based insulation and gives very good results on its own. So, some arctic cable wraped in some loose screening I happen to have.... I'l let you know.

 

Well done ...my experience too .....

Try some of the Lapp cables or others that RS stock ...maplins don't have much at all .....