S5TL Speaker Build.

hi,
I've started up a new thread over here as it seemed to be more apropriate to the continuation of the conversation. i've got a couple of questions which i'd aprieceiate some help with.
1) boxes for the external crossovers. I've tried to get in touch with par metal (the people michaelab used for his amp) but have had no reply as yet. i'm still going to persue them but would like to have a failsafe if possible. i need a 2 boxes each aprox 300 x 300 x 140 mm. the actual crossover boards are 230 x 120 x 70(ish) but i'd like some room for manouver if / when i decide to start fettling with them. any ideas - i'd prefer nice black aluminium ones to match the rest of my kit but beggars can't be choosers so anything the right size would be great - nearest i gound was 280 x 280 x 170 from rs in nice grey abs ok but not exactly what i was after.

2) I've added a list of things i'll need at the bottom of the post can anyone think of anything i've missed...

goggles
facemask
gloves
overalls
polythene dust sheets
woodglue
sillicon sealer
CLAMPS (cheers)
wet and dry production paper - any more info would be aprieciated
1200 grade wet and dry
flat sanding block
mdf sealer
primer
paint
t cut
wax
lint free cloth
masking tape
tv turntable
cheers


julian

 

wet and dry, Grades from 600 thru 1200, 0000 wire wool can be used aswell for around the 1000 grade
I would look for a better cutting paste than Tcut, maybe your local auto paints seller can help there
If you wanna push the boat out on the crossover box -
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3280&item=5724052147&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Buy one, i have another im not using.

 

Halfords for the W & D ju, 1600-1200 grade for finishing work, 400 grade for shaping and 60/80 reduction paper (badgers arse grade) for serious crap removal.

 

ta guys, i was looking at these http://www.iagaudio.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CH-02
but they are expensive and i suspect not tall enough to squeeze in the coke can caps that tony will recommend at a later date. the copper ones are even shallower!
cheers


julian

 

Why not mount crossover components on MDF until finalised, then get a box.

 

a curious 7 year old shares my living space so bare electronics are a no-no really.
cheers


julian

 

LoL

Make a wooden box, dont matter what it looks like, it'll be out of sight

 

or hammond make all types of enclosure inc extruded alu, very nice, my minimoy is in one and i'ts very well finished, not sure where to buy but here is a link
http://www.hammfg.com/docs/Enclosure/E4_PDF/E4_074-075.pdf

 

mini me?

 

I'd recommend getting one made out of either wood or plastic. If one stray wire touches a metal case it could be goodnight power amp.

 

it's looking very much like it's going to be plastic anyway now. although if i did get a metal enclosure i'd have insulated the inside anyway - probably with brown bread or some other damping stuff.
cheers


julian.

 

Portable headphone amp, some build them in "mint tins" runs off PP3 bags of grunt, not good for moving around, as extra box wires but great when yer stuck in some hotel room, somewhere like IOM in the middle of winter, Also got those creative travel speaker thing, great for what it is, good for background music, but change to earphones for more serious listening.

 

What about these Julian?

http://www.mainlinegroup.co.uk/mless/main.php?act=Card&id_element=2113

If you want these don't buy on the web - I might visit them for other stuff and collect. IIRC, they charge £6 p+p or something daft. Plus if they don't look 'right' I wouldn't buy them for you

 

Graham, don't be silly they wouldn't go with his curtains.

 

oh ho, nowt wrong with my curtains, but seriously graham, even those boxes would be too tall and not wide enough.
cheers


julian

 

Hi,

Try not to put your X-Overs into metal boxes. Using those is a pretty good way to kill the (potentially good) sound. If you absolutely MUST have Metal use at least Copper, Brass or Aluminum (in that sequence).

ABS may not look good, but it is likely to do much less harm to the sound than a metal box.

Another hint. Don't put Binding Posts on your speakers or X-Overs. Use preferably hardwired cables, if they must be removable use Neutrik Speakon or (better) brass electrical barrie strips to just clkamp "metal-to-metal". You would not believe how much audible distortion these "nice High End" binding posts cause.

Clamps. Big Clamps, Small Clamps. Corner Clamps. Alaternatively a Vacuum Bag or these "tape clamps" can be used, but you MUST have clamps of one sort or other.

Ciao T

 

Rosary or prayer mat depending on your particular faith?

Seriously I am going to investigate getting my cabinets professionally sprayed. I have just had some furniture done and the finish is exellent. My feeling is that by the time I had bought all of the bits and pieces like goggles and flying mask, I might well be looking at something close to a professional job in terms of costs. Julian, I'll get a ball park figure in the next week or so.

 

i'll do some investigation on my end too. at a guess all the 'paint' bits would probably come to about 100 ukp. so it's possible a pro job is in budget.
cheers


julian

 

One of the DIY gurus on TV did a two parter on making some speakers out of mdf.
When it came to the finishing he got a mate to spray them .
Whilst the colour was a bit in your face (blue) the finish looked really good .
It turned out his mate used ordinary household gloss paint .
So this may be worthwhile investigating , instead of paying larger premiums for automotive paint.

 

Yeah but kermit, Ju wants "metallic" paint and this iseasier to come by in automotive paint, mine have been painted with automotive paint, and i find it hard to beleive the fifish could be the same with gloss, remember the TV hides a lot of things your eyes would pick up on immediately.