Swapping RCA Socket for BNC Socket CD Transport TEAC T1

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Woodnut

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Hello,


I want to install a BNC digital out Socket on my TEAC VRDS T1 CD transport either in adition to the RCA socket or in place of the RCA socket.

I haven't attempted anything like this before and although it is probably a 5 minute job for alot of people here for someone who is new to modifying equipment like myself it would be great to get some guidance.

I have searched forums and internet in general and found a few threads where people have carried this out on Squeezeboxes although it didnt go into much detail.

I have had a look inside the TEAC and the RCA digital out is mounted on a rather busy PCB. I unscrewed the PCB to have a look at the underside to see if I could see how it was fixed/soldered.

-The barrel of the RCA socket is attached to a black piece of plastic which appears to be soldered in two places to the PCB

- On either side and above of the black housing are what looks like copper plates touching the chassis.

- whithin the black housing is orange plastic housing which has the centre conductor plate in it. On the other side of the PCB I can see a bit of the orange plastic sticking through though this is unsoldered. I think I can see where the centre conductor is soldered on the other side also.

- There is a nother solder join close o the edge of the PCB where the RCA is attached in the middle of the RCA barrel. Is this for the outer conductor of the RCA barrel?



How do I go about this? Can the BNC socket be somehow attached to the PCB? Or should it be fixed somewhere else and a 75ohm cable soldered at some point to the PCB and then run to the BNC socket?

It appears that Maplin only do one insulated BNC socket and it is 50ohms. I bought two BNC sockets (A clamp on type and normal type) and niether is is insulated from the chassis. Is there any way I can still use these?



Many thanks in advance, any help greatly appreciated.
 
a photo might be the best bet !

typically to swap out an rca .....an it sounds a relatively cheap one !...its two or three solder joints ...

desolder these and carefully remove the component ....

now I tend to retro fit bulk head mount connectors ...be it rca or what ever. Then jump from the pcb to the connector using silver in ptfe ....but in this case a 75ohm cable would be ideal ...

don't know about the specific bnc's .... but if there only 50ohm you may be no better off than with the rca ?

this is relatively simple task ...for some one with experience ....if in doubt don't do it !

if you practice on some dead or gash pcb ...you will get the skills needed to accomplish your task .....or ask for help from someone local to you ...can't see where that is?
 
Alternativly attack the conector with a pair of cutters,cut anything thats joining it to the pcb,then desolder the remaing tags,saves trying to get the solder to melt when theres a bloody big bit of metal acting as a heatsink and less change of lifting a pcb track
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

Sounds like a good idea to try out on some old PCB first I think I shall do that. Cutting the PCB sounds like the simplest as long as I can see clearly what I am cutting.

I will try and get a picture if poss.

A bit frustrating that Maplins only do insulated sockets in 50ohms but do two types of 75 ohms sockets that are not insulated.

If my understanding is correct the outer connector of a BNC socket is not supposed to touch the metal chassis? If that is so then what is the use of the uninsulated sockets?

Is it possible to use the uninsulated socket I have bought and insulate it myself? As long as it doesnt touch the chassis as it passes through the hole (Which is big enough for the bnc socket already and with perhaps a little work could be made bigger to leave a gap all of the way around)?
 
That will work fine. The reason for wanting the isolation is that simply , if there is a conductive path between socket 0v and chassis 0v you have no control over which 'loops' you have created at RF, which the original RCA doesn't.

Anything will be better than nothing, even if its only oversize heatshrink on the outside o fte BNC barrel(use a DVM continuity test to check your isolation is achieved)

I have to say if this all sounds too wierd - just stick with the RCA:BNC adaptor, and a working transport. The gains to be had will be rather small.
 

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