Turntable project

Haselsh1

Shaun H
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Hello again, as you can see, at the moment I use a Linn Basik turntable with an Alphason Xenon MCS arm which, to some degree, I'd like to keep. I am thinking however that I would like to modify the Linn with a new plinth. The intention is to make a new massive structure from one inch thick ply laminated with PVA to form something around four inches thick with cutouts for the motor, bearing and arm. The whole thing is to be coated in matt black with spun aluminium fittings. So, if that's the picture, does anyone have any advice...???
 
MDF is more dense than most plys.

The only excpetio to this I know about is Baltic Ply which is very heavy but hard to find and quite expensive.
 
Thanks Seeker

Hey I'll make a note of that. I have noticed from my local B&Q that MDF is a lot cheaper than ply. Also, MDF is available as thicker sheets than ply.
 
Hello again, as you can see, at the moment I use a Linn Basik turntable with an Alphason Xenon MCS arm which, to some degree, I'd like to keep. I am thinking however that I would like to modify the Linn with a new plinth. The intention is to make a new massive structure from one inch thick ply laminated with PVA to form something around four inches thick with cutouts for the motor, bearing and arm. The whole thing is to be coated in matt black with spun aluminium fittings. So, if that's the picture, does anyone have any advice...???


We're talking damping vibes here?

Oak is a favourite.

I have also used balsa to very good effect.

MDF can be "dead sounding"....not my words someone elses.

Soft rubber is also useful (IME).
 
MDF is very much easier to finish to a high standard than ply.
 
Would it be good to mix MDF and ply or high density chipboard? That way you don't end up with a solid block that resonates to the same vibe... Might be academic with a relatively small & thick block though. You could make up 3 different ones and try them before finishing the best sounding one:-)
Seems to work well in speaker cab construction.
 
I'd start with mdf too - cheap to buy and if you get it from a larger B&Q or timber merchant they'll chop it up into the correct outer dimensions for you for a few pence. I used baltic ply for my speaker cabs and it's very nice but dear, and 'one' of the main reasons I chose ply was that it's much better at dealing with super tight screws than mdf, but that's probably irrelevant for your project. Mdf is easy to sand to a nice smooth finish as well, and a 'dead' sound is probably what you want, no?
 
The main advantage of ply is that it is very much stiffer than MDF. Ultimately, the choice of materials depends on what exact qualities you think are important in your new plinth. You can make a nice plinth quite easily by buying a large wooden chopping block (Ikea do some good ones) and using that.
 
The main advantage of ply is that it is very much stiffer than MDF.

But if you're going to glue together 3 or four sheets, this is less of an issue.

Like the idea of the wooden chopping board. But only if it's real wood and not an Ikea veneer special.
 
For what its worth heres my thoughts, laminating ply together with pva I think may require a fair weight or pressure to ensure that it forms a solid block, that is that it bonds evenly over all contact surfaces.Which is fine if you can do this.If it is not suitably bonded you may find that the seperate laminations move once within a centrally heated house resulting in fissures/delamination. A solid block of wood suitably kiln dried would probably be easier alternatively slate/granite or introduce some "fixings that penetrate all layers of the material. Perspex and ply/wood???
 
But if you're going to glue together 3 or four sheets, this is less of an issue.

Like the idea of the wooden chopping board. But only if it's real wood and not an Ikea veneer special.

Yeah, I meant real wood.
 
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