X-can V3 Output Stage - Any Ideas?

Discussion in 'DIY Discussion' started by Fergus, Oct 1, 2006.

  1. Fergus

    Fergus

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    Thanks a million.
     
    Fergus, Oct 9, 2006
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  2. Fergus

    Fergus

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    Zanash,

    What about those big heatsinks? Any chance I could buy some?

    Fergus
     
    Fergus, Oct 9, 2006
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  3. Fergus

    zanash

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    Ah ......don't worry I'll send you a few ! I got a job lot of 120 of ebay ....I'll let you pay my postage though !
     
    zanash, Oct 9, 2006
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  4. Fergus

    Fergus

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    You're a gent.

    I'll need some heatsinks for the X-CANS V3 and the X-10 V3. Just send details of how much it will be.

    Thanks,

    Fergus
     
    Fergus, Oct 9, 2006
    #24
  5. Fergus

    Fergus

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    Would there be any point replacing the diodes in the V3 to Schottkys? And if so, which ones?

    Stellabagpuss has made his own PSU cables. Surely, this would be another way to upgrade? Can you buy better quality cables, say from NEUTRIK?

    Fergus
     
    Fergus, Oct 12, 2006
    #25
  6. Fergus

    zanash

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    The problem is getting suitable ones .....at a reasonable cost.

    I'd say no .....or at least I don't think they would be any better which is a round about way of saying a twisted pair of silver for the dc is about as good as your going to get ...there are thoughts that copper may be better on the dc supply side I've no opinion iether way.
     
    zanash, Oct 13, 2006
    #26
  7. Fergus

    STELLABAGPUSS Happy Chappy

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    There is 2 ways you can go in regards to XPSUV3 cables, if you don't fancy DIY, there is a seller on ebay, who sells improved cables.
    The other way is to DIY a pair, I used twisted Silver, but I would imagine that High Quality Copper would work well. It was a worth while upgrade for myself, I recently tried out the bogg standard lead, to my ear's it's sounds compressed, and shut-in, and strangely the sound was quieter.
    The only downside of using silver,is it takes about 3 to 4 weeks to burn the cables in, as they sound very bright, mine have settled down now.
    Or you could always ask the Cable Master "Zanash" to build one for you!
     
    STELLABAGPUSS, Oct 13, 2006
    #27
  8. Fergus

    Fergus

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    Surely, a "twisted silver" cable would cost a fortune? What 3 pin connectors would you use? Farnell sell a Deltron connector (£1.19), would this be a good choice? Who's the seller on E-bay?

    Thanks,

    Fergus
     
    Fergus, Oct 13, 2006
    #28
  9. Fergus

    zanash

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    It would only consist of about three strands of 0.3mm silver in 1mm id tube .....assuming you'd only need 0.5m ish ?
     
    zanash, Oct 14, 2006
    #29
  10. Fergus

    Fergus

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    0.5m sounds about right. Since I have three of the X-Series feeding off the X-PSU V3, I would need three of these cables.

    Fergus
     
    Fergus, Oct 14, 2006
    #30
  11. Fergus

    STELLABAGPUSS Happy Chappy

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    TBH, I had spare Silver left over from my speaker cable project, so in some cases I've used 1.0mm which is a bit of a overkill, and on the other lead I just twisted 4 x 0.5mm together. Let us know how you get on ?
     
    STELLABAGPUSS, Oct 16, 2006
    #31
  12. Fergus

    Fergus

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    I 've spent most of the day modding the X-CAN V3, focusing especially on the output stage. I ended up fitting bi-polar electrolytics (1000uF/16v), then bypassing them with the much respected Russian mil-spec PIO caps.

    I must say I was dreading fitting these caps: they are, physically, huge and there's not much room on the V3's PCB. I decided to fit them on a bare piece of the curcuit board, towards the rear of the amp. I drilled two small holes and, with the help of some blue tac, secured the caps to the PCB with cable ties. All and all, pretty easy and not worth lossing any sleep over.

    I have to say that the PIOs sound fabulous, even though they are not properly run-in. At first it rather strange listening to them. I mean, it's obvious from the start that they're better: the timbre of the music is excellent, and the music seems bigger, grander, flowing effortlessly from the headphones. It appears free from the harshness and grittiness of electrolytics, even the better quality ones. Stellabagpuss says these caps are "clearer", "warmer" and "sweeter", and I certainly agree with him. There's plenty of detail, but it's not "in your face" - it's all placed in that space between your ears, each thread of the music easily distinguishable from the other, without it being overly analytical or cold.

    Simply brilliant.

    Fergus

    Next comes the X-DAC V3. Pray for me.
     
    Fergus, Oct 31, 2006
    #32
  13. Fergus

    STELLABAGPUSS Happy Chappy

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    Great Fergus, I guessed you would be pleased with the PIO, we have to thank Zanash for putting us on to this mod, as you may have guessed, he can't sit still when it comes to modding. He always on the lookout for new things.
    Let us know how the rest of the mods go, I bet you are just enjoying the improvement from the PIO for the time being ! Anyway well done !
     
    STELLABAGPUSS, Nov 1, 2006
    #33
  14. Fergus

    zanash

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    I hear a fluidity to the sound that just is not there when you use other types of ordinary electrolytics caps ......just got some more of the big green ones as I've fitted them into all my kit.

    fergus you could try lossing the 1000uf caps and let the pio do all the work ! [unless you specifically need them in place]
     
    zanash, Nov 1, 2006
    #34
  15. Fergus

    Fergus

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    Thanks guys. Your help in all this has been invaluable.

    Zanash's discovery and recommendation of the PIO caps was a revelation to me. I certainly wouldn't have thought of such an exotic type of capacitor for the output stage of the V3. By the way Zanash, your silver cable is working beautifully - I wired up the PIOs with it.
     
    Fergus, Nov 1, 2006
    #35
  16. Fergus

    zanash

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    Your going to have to post a pic or two !
     
    zanash, Nov 1, 2006
    #36
  17. Fergus

    Fergus

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    Sure Zanash.

    But first I want to fit some UF4007 fast recovery diodes, and you know those shitty yellow film caps I want to do something with those - maybe bypass them with WIMAs?
     
    Fergus, Nov 1, 2006
    #37
  18. Fergus

    zanash

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    The yellow caps are not so bad ....its the low q resistors and electrolytic and sockets that really screw the sound [imo...of course]
     
    zanash, Nov 2, 2006
    #38
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