Can anybody fix my Anatek CM-1?

Discussion in 'Hi-Fi and General Audio' started by MonkeyBiter!, Jun 12, 2021.

  1. MonkeyBiter!

    MonkeyBiter!

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2021
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi all,
    My Anatek CM-1 just died mid-listen, zip, nada, nothing and not just a fuse either!
    After some searching I realised the company dissolved in 2016 and I cannot find any mention of anyone who was involved with the company who is still dealing with repairs. If anyone can help I would be eternally grateful.
    (I'm based in Burgess Hill so can drop off to any ex-Anatek tech still in the area)
    Simon.
    p.s. I could also do with a new LED for an MB50 too!
     
    MonkeyBiter!, Jun 12, 2021
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. MonkeyBiter!

    Sergeauckland

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Messages:
    201
    Likes Received:
    17
    Location:
    Suffolk
    I've been looking for information on the CM-1 and found next to nothing, other than it's a 'two-box passive preamp'.

    If it's passive, then any fault is likely to be trivial. On the other hand, I'm confused as to why it needs two boxes. If the second box is a power supply, perhaps for a remote control, then what it does other than power the remote/volume control I don't know. If you have any further information, copy of a manual maybe, then perhaps I may be in a better position to help.

    S.
     
    Sergeauckland, Jun 13, 2021
    #2
    MonkeyBiter! likes this.
    1. Advertisements

  3. MonkeyBiter!

    MonkeyBiter!

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2021
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks for your reply.

    Unfortunately I don't have a manual, well at least not anything with any useful information. I do believe you're right that it's passive, there is a separate power supply which I reckon is the issue as it just died instantaneously (no lights remaining on)
    I'll open the box to see if there is any evidence of a burn out (although there was no smell) and take some images at the same time...back soon.
     
    MonkeyBiter!, Jun 13, 2021
    #3
  4. MonkeyBiter!

    MonkeyBiter!

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2021
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    16236004478878961531926225638232.jpg 16236005048966177781408344203971.jpg ok so the CM-1 is above and then the power supply below. There is an on-board fuse on the power supply which is a fine, I can't see any other telltale signs of any damage, burning or anything else in either the CM-1 or the power supply.
     
    MonkeyBiter!, Jun 13, 2021
    #4
  5. MonkeyBiter!

    Sergeauckland

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Messages:
    201
    Likes Received:
    17
    Location:
    Suffolk
    Nicely built units!
    Looking at the pictures, it looks like the inputs and output go through relays. These relays will need power to keep them energised, so if power fails, then silence.

    You can test the power supply yourself with a multimeter. If you don't have one, they're available for about £10, and I think everyone should have one, HiFi or not. What follows may seem insulting if you know your way round electronics, or hopefully helpful if you don't!

    With the multimeter, measure the mains incoming. You should measure anywhere between 230 and 250 volts AC.
    Assuming that's OK (if it's not, then the mains fuse in the plug has failed) measure the output of the power supply, which should be +13v and -13v DC relative to the 0v terminal. You can measure this on the lower terminal block in your picture. If both of those are OK then the problem has to be inside the main unit, and that's going to be a lot harder to fix, you will then need someone who knows their way round that circuit.

    If the +-13v isn't OK, then you need to see whether the transformer is putting out any volts, so the best way of checking that is across the rectifier diodes, which are the black components next to the blue transformer. I can't see from the photos where the printed circuit tracks go, so can't easily identify the tracks, but I think the transformer outputs are the silver bands on the LEFT HAND diodes. If I'm right, you should be able to measure 9v AC between each of those silver band wires and the 0V terminal at the bottom.

    If the transformer is OK, then it should be an easy repair for a technician.

    Let us know how you get on. I know it doesn't help you, but I'm always suspicious of small manufacturers who don't issue full service documentation, then go out of business leaving users with no support. At least these units look decently made, unlike a lot of other 'boutique' items.

    S.
     
    Sergeauckland, Jun 13, 2021
    #5
    MonkeyBiter! likes this.
  6. MonkeyBiter!

    MonkeyBiter!

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2021
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    That's great, thank you for your time on this, it's very much appreciated
    I haven't got a multimeter. But I will get one, follow your guidance and see where we get to and post any results. (Probably later in the week)
    They are definitely a high quality build and go perfectly with my Blueroom Housepods. I've had the Anatek kit since 2007 and I'm still in love with it so fingers crossed I can get somewhere with it. TBC...
     
    MonkeyBiter!, Jun 13, 2021
    #6
  7. MonkeyBiter!

    MonkeyBiter!

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2021
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    So having got hold of a multimeter I ran some tests as per instruction:
    Firstly I discovered that there was a secondary fuse situated between the input and the power switch at the end of the PCB. It is a T315ma/250V slow burn type and it has blown!
    Testing points to the Transformer and on closer inspection I noticed that I could feel a very slight raised lump and can now see a very minor discoloration in the same area on top where says VDE0551 (I missed this completely first time around).

    Everything else tests well so hopefully this will solve it.
    I've ordered a new T315ma fuse (£40) and am currently trying to source a new transformer direct from Dagnalls.
    The transformer has eight soldered pins and is also secured to the PCB with 4 self tappers so should be straight forward for a decent tech to replace. 16240053944755157314939340161875.jpg 16240054210294858359500814144730.jpg
     
    MonkeyBiter!, Jun 18, 2021
    #7
  8. MonkeyBiter!

    Sergeauckland

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Messages:
    201
    Likes Received:
    17
    Location:
    Suffolk
    £40 for a fuse? Madness. They're pennies each. PM me your postal address and I'll send you a couple for free.
    If the £40 includes a new transformer, that too is a bit expensive, but OK, more reasonable.

    As to the transformer, it's possible it's overheated and failed, which is why the fuse blew, I'd try a new fuse first, if that works and doesn't blow, then check the transformer temperature, and if it only gets mildly warm after, say, an hour's use, then you're fine. If the new fuse blows immediately or the transformer runs hot, then I agree it will probably need changing. It's also possible that the transformer overheats because of a fault further into the circuit, but you'll need a tech to diagnose that.

    S.
     
    Sergeauckland, Jun 18, 2021
    #8
    MonkeyBiter! likes this.
  9. MonkeyBiter!

    MonkeyBiter!

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2021
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Yep I felt a bit taken aback at the price too!
    Hope it's worth it...
    I'll PM my address now.
    I'll do just that, check with a fuse and then go from there...
    :)
     
    MonkeyBiter!, Jun 18, 2021
    #9
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.