Cayin valve amp -tube rolling

don't forget there is no valve that will make an oustanding amp out of an average one
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Not sure if that was at me, but if a valve amp can't beat an A400 I don't think it is even average... I live in hope of some improvment :)
 
You will get some improvement/change by tube rolling. But tube types are only part of the sound of an amplifier. As has already been implied, a cheap amp will always be a cheap amp :) With the fairly recent surge in interest in valve amplifiers, many manufacturers have jumped on the band wagon and are selling all kinds of variations. Some of these can be very good, but most use low quality/specification transformers and other components. Decent transformers are critical to a tube amplifier, IMO.

This Cayin is OK, but not anything particularly special. Don't spend a fortune on tubes (as has also been said, the pre/driver tubes tend to have a more significant impact on tonality than the power tubes). It's probably be better to save for a better amp.

For what it's worth, I use a full Electro-Harmonix set in my PL5 (KT88 power valves) ~ they suit me well and aren't too expensive.
 
Agree Linearman.
The first Heffa (DIY) amps built used cheap mains transformers (the aim was to build a sub £100 amp).
The Son of Heffa used Lundhal transformers and these performed and handled different speaker loads far better.
There were also circuit tweaks and I have found mich better sound to me ears with changes of tubes (from the likes of Kenrad, Sylvania and for power tubes (albeit KT88's in my case), Electro Harmonix have bettered both Svetlana and Tesla's.
A TVC instead of the old vol pot potential divider solution is a big step up.
 
Is this a DIY option (TVC rather than vol pot potential divider solution) or is it the fundamental design of the amp itself? Or are you suggesting to bypass the volume pot and use a TVC pre-amp e.g. Promitheus, replace the volume control with a better pot? Are there any other mods that can be made that are too hard or expensive (I'm happy to use to soldering iron). Sorry for the probably newbie type question so feel free to point me at a "dummies guide to tube amps" type article on the web and thanks for the replies :)

I had only planned to spend about £35 on 4 power tubes but if the design of the amp and the transformers are the limiting factor, is it a moot point to even consider whether to buy EL34L, KT66, KT77 or 6L6G tubes (based on their typical sonic characteristics)?

It's not my "main" hifi amp (the Shanling SP80s are those) so I'm not going to chuck money at it but it would be nice to make it sound a little clearer and improve the "air" of the sound.

Here's a link to a review of the MT-35 (translated).
 
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In my experience with new tubes it's usually about a week or so - say about 20 hours on time. But it's really a 'how long is a piece of string' type question. As a matter of interest, why did you go for the Conrad Johnson pre rather than the PrimaLuna 3?
 
I got a hell of a deal on the CJ. I was less than a year old, and less than half price. I also wanted a remote ;)
They work well together, i'm pleased with the sound.
Have just ordered 8 x EL34 Electro Harmonix, so that's all the PL valves gone !
 
Pure_Carbon said:
thrudge, as you seem to know these things...I've got a pair of monoblock primaluna prologue 6's using the following valves :
4 x EL34 , 2 x 12AX7 and 2 x 12AU7, all "badged" primaluna, so probably like you say, soggy Chinese valves.
What do each of these do?
If i wanted to tighten or extend the bass, which valves need to be swapped?
The 4 small valves at the front ( the 12**7's ? ) all have cool dampers on them supplied with the amps.
Thanks, Neil.
(Sorry to hijack this thread...sort of !)
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Well the bass response depends on what speakers you are running. IE. try playing it through large-cabinet single driver, very sensitive speakers if you can.
 

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