Welcome back, brother Merlin!
If you're buying new, don't buy a cartridge in the UK - you can get the same cart, brand new, for a lot less, by buying from Germany (my Ortofon Rohmann costs just over a grand in the UK. I got it for a tad over £500 including shipping).
Here's a good online source with a wide choice:
http://www.phonophono.de/
For MM, I really like the Goldring 1042. Any of the cheaper Ortofon MCs seem to be well regarded. Alternatively, the Audio Technica OC9 is good (368 euro). The budget MC cart of choice on PFM is the Denon DL103, which is 122 euro, absurdly cheap for a cartridge with such a reputation (I've never heard it, so I can't comment, but TonyL uses one on a pretty well sorted LP12, and seems to rate it).
The EAR 834P is a very nice tube phono stage, but the version Chris has spotted is MM or high-output MC only. There's an MM/MC version that usually goes for around £350 second hand, you see them around quite a lot. Alternatively, you can get a Trichord Dino new for £300. I bought one today, so a bit early for definitive judgements, but it seems extremely good for the money and is incredibly flexible (you can optimally load it for just about any cartridge imaginable, something that isn't usually the case with cheaper phono stages).
-- Ian