Copper Sheeting for CD Players

C

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I have been busy with the Dynamat Original and Blue tack in my CD Player. I managed to get through 1m x 0.5 m on the my NAD c521i (single layers only) so lots of areas are covered including the floor of the player.

Promising results so far.

However, I heard a while back that copper sheeting can be used in CD Players.

My questions as follows.

1, What is the theory (is it to reduce RFI) ?

2, Is it best installed to the inside of the lid or on the floor ( under the main circuit board) of the cd player or both. (the inside of the lid would be easier though)

3, Does it matter how thick the copper plating is ?

4, Does the majority of the copper's surface area have to be exposed or could i sandwich in between two layers of Dynamat ?

Any help would be good.


Thanks.

Iain,
 
The copper sheet is gounded and acts lie the shield of a cable. RS have an adhesive backed copper foil that I've used for shielding the cable bundles and IC inside the player.

You can over damp a CDP so be careful.

One of the single best tweaks you can do is to change the diodes to fast recovery hexfreds or schottky types. Penny for penny its hard to beat.
 
Originally posted by zanash
One of the single best tweaks you can do is to change the diodes to fast recovery hexfreds or schottky types. Penny for penny its hard to beat.
Click to expand...

Ian, if you realy what to kick things up a notch, dispence with them all-together :eek: ;) and use a total mains decoupling device. Quite amazing results can be had :) WM
 
I took £600 worth of isolation and mains tweakery round to Iain's the other day, and in all honesty, it made barely any difference whatsoever. :eek:

The problem here IMO is akin to fine tuning a Ferrari - great and rewarding on the race track, but redundant if you are driving it through built up areas at 30mph, where a standard model will more than suffice without further adornement.

IMO - it is :banghead: to reap any substantial gains, with the selection of music you enjoy Iain, and the volume it is usually played at, no matter how much money is thrown at it. This is a good thing - more money for music and fishing tackle. (and maybe some speaker cable :) )

Other than that i believe you should siesta in the rarefied atmosphere of hifi nirvana - and i would only employ further gadgetry for the purposes of quality and pleasure, as the value for money bubble has just dropped out of the ass end of the sound barometer.

:)

A copper clad box of tronics does look swell mind.
 
Another speaker cable problem eh?, sounds familar (again), I once took over £6k worth of goodies to a chaps place and had the same sort of results :(
Not until the speaker cable was swopped, was the music allowed to wend it's way out :) sort of Huge 'music removing filter' in the way the speaker cables. Only time I failed on the first attempt. Next time Dino you should take your cable along only, and see what that gives ;) :) WM
 
yup WM - i think further fruits may blossom in the organic fields yet. The CAT5 was a miracle of labour, but i sense it is a poor dj at a potentially more vibrant party.

My Tara Labs will be winging its way round soon, on a final mission before i admit defeat.
 
Originally posted by penance
does any-one know where i could by some copper sheet?
im looking for around 410mm x 205mm x 2mm
Click to expand...
decent model shops,arts and craft shops em metal suppliers and even RS components alough its not quite the size you need ,3.5x300x300,stock code 680-959,£18.88 for 5 bits
 
How can one apply copper sheets AND sound deadening pads?

Applying sound deadening pads over cu sheets won't be very secure.
Applying cu sheets over sound deadening pads won't earth the copper.

Since sound deadening pads work best on the inside of the panels, could the solution be to apply the cu sheets to the outside? This is won't work with the cover though. :confused:
 
Originally posted by cookiemonster
I took £600 worth of isolation and mains tweakery round to Iain's the other day, and in all honesty, it made barely any difference whatsoever. :eek:
Click to expand...

I have a Tom Evans modified A300R Precision. I had conversation with Tom Evans about mains and mains cables. He said, "unless you live in an area where the mains supply is very dirty, just use an electric kettle lead and buy some CDs with the money you saved" !!!
 
Originally posted by BlueMax
I have a Tom Evans modified A300R Precision. I had conversation with Tom Evans about mains and mains cables. He said, "unless you live in an area where the mains supply is very dirty, just use an electric kettle lead and buy some CDs with the money you saved" !!!
Click to expand...

maybe he hasnt listened to a decent mains lead then
 
Originally posted by BlueMax
I have a Tom Evans modified A300R Precision. I had conversation with Tom Evans about mains and mains cables. He said, "unless you live in an area where the mains supply is very dirty, just use an electric kettle lead and buy some CDs with the money you saved" !!!
Click to expand...

I LIKE tom evans!
 
I agree that his service isn't fast. It took nearly 6 weeks to do his upgardes on the A300R/P.

The reasons are that some of the components are MOD spec with long lead times. He also use individual component matching to tighten up the production tolerances.
 
You know one of his ex-business partners lives here too :eek:
I first got exposed to Tom evans stuff about 6 years ago after I was carged £800 for a well boched butched Alpine CDP changer my special 'Lithos excel clock' and free nescafe' coffee cup lid cover implanted in my brand new Changer where the clock didn't fit proberly) :mad: only to find it fried my battery/head unit and internals of said cdp changer, as the Special clock was in fact a blantant rip off (of another well know make) and was wired in such a manner that it was drawing 400M/A and fring the batteries, class workmanship pure class, I still have the said bodge available for inspection.
Top bloke, when he not ineberated or floating (totaly alledged of coarse, and all in my imagination) WM
No they really do take less than 6 weeks really :)
 

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