External crossovers? BSS Audio

MontyW

MontyW

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Hi,

I'm looking into adding an active sub or subs to my PMC AML1. I have been advised by PMC that the Bryston crossover is the way to go.

However, having looked around there seems to be quite a few external crossovers that would on paper do the job of the Bryston.

I came across this:

http://www.bssaudio.com/productpg.php?product_id=6

Has anyone know anything about this piece of kit and can anyone advise me if it is suitable for a pair of two way active speakers and a pair of active mono subs?

Thanks,

Monty
 
The BSS FDS 360 is a bargain analogue xover that has a very good sonic pro reputation and can be had for £150 s/h these days.
 
Thanks cooky - but can I hook two active subs and my AML1s to the 360?


Monty
 
Use the high pass filter section of the FDS360 to send to your AML1's. The low-pass filter can feed the subs. Some active two-ways also have a built in high pass filter that is switched on when they are used with subs (I don't think the AML1's have that though - ask "Tenson")

What you are talking about is pretty simple and no need for the expensive digital FDS366. Good digital crossovers cost alot so best to stick with good analogue legacy models.

A good second hand Klark Teknik two-way stereo x-over is worth looking for on eBay. Sometimes go for silly money now the pro industry want digital.
 
I don't think the AML1 does have a high cut option from what I remember.

The nice thing about a digital Xover for subs is that you can implement some room correction with parametric EQ as well as time and phase align the subs with the main speakers for far better integration. The DCX for example has an automatic time alignment setting, and you could get the phase good by just tweaking it with a tone playing at the xover point. Where it is most quiet, its out of phase, so you then just invert and it will be optimally in phase. A sharp filter like 24 or 48dB/Oct will help overcome any irregularities in the roll-off response.
 
andyoz said:
Use the high pass filter section of the FDS360 to send to your AML1's. The low-pass filter can feed the subs. Some active two-ways also have a built in high pass filter that is switched on when they are used with subs (I don't think the AML1's have that though - ask "Tenson")

What you are talking about is pretty simple and no need for the expensive digital FDS366. Good digital crossovers cost alot so best to stick with good analogue legacy models.

A good second hand Klark Teknik two-way stereo x-over is worth looking for on eBay. Sometimes go for silly money now the pro industry want digital.
Click to expand...

If you wish to go digital and are loaded then you can get a much better sound than BSS366 too, XTA springs to mind here-if you are on a tight budget then someone on here mods Behringer DCX's with very good results.
Personally I'd steer clear of the Klark Teknik stuff as I'm on the look out for some:D:D:D
 
Thanks for the replies.

I really am quite keen on a digital crossover for the reasons Tenson mentions, but this technology is taking me to the realms of the unknown - I certainly need to do some more research as to how I can implement room corrections through a digital crossover.

I've spent some time applying bass traps/diffusers and I've been amazed at what they can do to a room and the changes I see when I test the room acoustics. I also need to know if the software on the digital crossovers will work with my current set-up.

Cooky, I wish I had known you were after a Klark Teknik - I came across 9848 for sale but I didn't buy because I was phased by not knowing enough about crossovers and speaker management.
 
Was thinking of obtaining an FDS360 for my DMT 15s and doing 2nd order butterworth @1.2 k LF and 4th order LR on HF

Would be interesting to compare that to the stock passive xovers, which I've using till now.
 
Baudrillard said:
Was thinking of obtaining an FDS360 for my DMT 15s and doing 2nd order butterworth @1.2 k LF and 4th order LR on HF

Would be interesting to compare that to the stock passive xovers, which I've using till now.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure you can do asymmetric slopes withe the 360.
FWIW I've found to my ears and using the Tannoy badged XTA226 that the closer you can get to matching the passive slopes the better.
 

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