Thorens TD125 mk2 Resto

Hi Stuart,

Your PCB looks mostly standard with the exception of the two large electrolytic capacitors. The dark coloured axial cap is definitely not standard but the orange one looks axial and may well be the original although it is a different colour to the originals which were in both of mine. If only one of them has been changed I'd be inclined to put in a pair of new axial caps. You should be able to get suitable capacitors from all of the major suppliers but for the record I used Vishay 1000uF 25V from Farnell (order code 116-5384)

The transistors, trim pots, film caps and rectifier all look original to me.

One of mine has 8 pin IC's and the other has 16 pin IC's and I believe both are originals so they probably changed the components used during production at some point.

I use photobucket as an image hosting website which seems to work well.

What tonearm and cartridge do you have on it?

 

I already have caps to change the 2 axials and I ordered the pots from Rapid so they should be here tomorrow.
It came with a Linn Basik LVX which I don't intend to use once I have refurbed the TT. I have the choice of using an Ittok LVII, an upgraded RB250 (better wiring, low slung counterweight) and a standard RB300. Just ordered a couple of pieces of birch ply to make a couple of new armboards so that I can quickly swap between arms to see how they all sound. A have a couple of carts to try out - a DL110, an Ortofon MC20 Super and a Nagaoka MP11.

Hopefully the weather will be good enough at the weekend to let me spray the top plate, going to go for a glossy black enamel finish.

 

Is it worth setting the pots while I still have the TT in bits or does the platter really need to be fitted to get it accurate?

 

Fek. Started adjusting the pots and moving the speed selector with the same little screwdriver I was adjusting the pots with. No idea how I did it but I shorted something when I was moving the selector and now only 33rpm runs properly, 16 just stalls and 45 judders. Oh well better order the replacement trannies and use a plastic pot adjuster next time ....

 

Check the position of the speed selector switch and make sure the contacts are clean. You have to be careful that the selector switch is making a good contact.

 

There was a spark and a ffftt noise Contacts on the slider switch look fine and the motor was running fine before the mishap. Ordered 4 each of the transistors, cost me less than £1 each including postage.

 

The fine speed adjuster can become dirty, needing a squirt of cleaner/lubricant as in normal use it's hardly ever used.

The springs can apparently be replaced with Linn ones as the sub-chassis and platter masses are similar I believe. I'd probably stick with the Thorens grommets though. One of my mk1 springs was bent, possibly to help with centring, but this prevented a clean piston-bounce with an R200 arm fitted.

I'm wondering if the rubberised 'mushrooms' might not improve sonics? I have no idea but certainly on the LP12 and I believe the PT's as well, a suspension not behaving properly did mess the sound up.

 

I've hunted the net and can't find a source for the little rubber grommets that are on the bolts of the subchassis as mine are perished. Anyone thought of an alternative? I'm tempted to try my own by making a little mould and using silicone sealant.

 

Hi Killie99,

Have you got it working yet?

There is a seller on ebay called something like BearKola. He seems to break a lot of Thorens TT's for parts and may be able to source some rubber grommets for you. When I wanted a new motor he had several 'in stock'. Certainly worth sending him an email.

 

I've got the motor and all 3 speeds working a treat after I replaced the transistors - voltages are spot on. I've put it back together but I'm waiting on an arm board being delivered. Hand spinning the platter it runs for over 3 minutes so the bearing seems to be in great condition. The little rubber washers are a bit perished but still seem to do the job they're meant to do. Put new Linn springs/grommets in so as soon as I get the arm board I can get the arm fitted and suspension set up - new Denon DL110 turned up yesterday from Hong Kong and no Customs/VAT charges, yahoo!!. I've twiddled the springs and have the top plate centered so looking good.

 

Can we have some pics please?

 

It's still sitting on my bench waiting on an arm board but here's a wee look. The plinth isn't in great shape, looks like it was painted by someone. Trying to get a price for an oak plinth.

 

and this has just been delivered .....

 

Nice pics.

Funny how one TD125 just doesn't seem enough!

Let me know if you end up with a spare plinth, I need to source one for my 'spare' TD125 which currently is plinth-less.

I've been looking at the solid wood plinths available on ebay but I really would like one with a perspex lid to keep the dust off.

 

Arm boards finally turned up, one of them was almost cut the right size and the other was a disaster. How hard is it to cut 2 bits of wood to the supplied dimensions?? Anyway, drilled the holes, mounted my lovely RB250 (Audio Origami rewire, Michell TecnoWeight and Origin Live VTA adjuster) and mounted my brand new DL110. Suspension adjusted, cart set up with a Baerwald arc protractor. Tori Amos 'Little Earthquakes' first pressing, placed on the deck and wow, just wow. This blows away my LP12/Cirkus,Ittok by a country mile (it was set up by Audio Origami so I know it's as good as it can get).
Need to paint the armboard and build myself a new plinth - can't find anyone to make me one at a reasonable cost so I'll have a go myself. Ordered some nice 30mm oak strips so give me a few weeks and I'll see what I can make of it. I have never built anything with wood before so it'll be a bit of a learning process for me.

 

after a long time away .... here's what my TD125 looks like now!

 

Thanks a lot for this topic!!!!!!! I had the same symptoms as you described. I have replaced all four transistors and it works fine Thanks!!!

 

First off - Hypoid 90 gearbox oil works for me .. it worked for Peter Dunlop too in the original Systemdek helical bearing ..

I have always used it on my TD160 and later on my Systemdek turntables.

The TD125 and TD150/160 are all better sounding decks than the TD124 .. idler drive is mechanically unsound at keeping motor noise away from the cartridge and belt drive is far superior in my humble opinion (and of course most of the super design turntables) .. the TD 124 thing all started with Ken Kessler and for the life of me I cannot see why. With the TD150 and anything using a ball bearing if you can source a new one then in effect you will have a brand new point to your bearing ...

The TD125 is a gorgeous turntable and if you want to improve its sound you need to increase the mass of the turntable platter or the subchassis ...also add an acrylic "mat" instead of felt or rubber. Years ago I had a Linn I picked up to take to a store to have an upgrade done .. at home with it that evening many years ago i wondered why a Linn with an SME and an Ortofon M20 FL sounded so much better than my TD160 with the thorens arm and a Denon 103. So i gingerly experimented - I put the linn platter on the thorens in place of the thorens one (it took a little care as the inner cut of the Linn is slightly smaller than than the Thorens but with care I got it to balance .. fortunately I had the springs set quite high cos with the extra weight it sank lower almost brushing the topplate .. anyway I adjusted the arm height to match and hey presto - the Thorens with the Denon 103 immediately jumped into super territory - the LInn with the thorens platter sounded worse still ...

So I may be wrong but I believe that mass is a major player in the sound quality .. as to idler drives turntables well it is nice to own a classic car but would you want to drive it every day? Oh one final thing - I have compared the Audio Note with two motors to the original Systemdek II900 (they are the same if you get the acrylic platter Sustemdek but it only has a single motor) and to my ears I couldn't tell the difference ... there again there is the possibility I need some new ears.

The trouble with hifi is ya never know if it is just the "emporer's new clothes" .. so go by your own ears, if it sounds right to you then it is right ....

 

I agree, the TD124 is a lovely collectors piece but the TD125 has it beaten in terms of SQ.

I recently upgraded the plastic motor pulley to a beautifully machined aluminium one sourced from Italy via eBay and it's excellent.

 

Is it this one here?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PULLEY-...0?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_101&hash=item3cf5a71638

What improvement does it make?